A NIGHT AT THE DANDY - WITH FABRICE PELLEGRIN
We sat down with perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin, the nose behind our latest fragrance, The Dandy, to discuss the creation of the whisky-based scent.
How did you come to pursue a career in perfumery?
My journey began when I was a child. I grew up in Grasse, the perfume capital, with my family where my father was a perfumer, my grandmother picked jasmine, and my grandfather supplied natural ingredients to the perfume industry. They all shared their passion and know-how with me, which was crucial in shaping my olfactory career. This heritage is what led me to explore every stage of perfume creation.
Do you have any childhood memories of smell or fragrance?
Oh, countless memories! The scent of jasmine from Grasse mingled with earthy olive and resinous cypress fills my memories. Spending my childhood in Grasse was a gift: being surrounded by this generous Mediterranean nature awakened my imagination.
Where do you look for inspiration when creating a scent?
Before creating a fragrance, I take time to reflect on the history of the fragrance house. I often begin with raw material, focussing on what it evokes for me: its scent, its terroir, and also its texture. In my compositions, I often play with a major ingredient which I then integrate with other key notes. I try not to lose sight of the emotion I want to convey and remain faithful to my initial ideas throughout the scent’s development.
Describe The Dandy in three words.
Independent, refined, and epicurean.
What olfactive category does The Dandy fall into?
The Dandy falls into the woody amber category. It blends the warmth of woody notes with the freshness of citrus and the richness of amber and patchouli. This combination creates a sophisticated and bold fragrance that is both timeless and modern.
How does The Dandy fragrance evolve on skin?
The Dandy fragrance evolves with confidence, moving from dynamic freshness to woody warmth to refined virility. Initially, top notes of citron, bergamot, and raspberry bring a lively dynamic freshness. Next, the fragrance's heart reveals accords of cedar, whisky and oak, which add a woody, spicy depth evoking charisma and sophistication. Finally, the base notes of patchouli, cedarwood and amber bring a sensual warmth and smoky undertone that linger on the skin.
How would you describe the smell of whisky in perfumery?
In perfumery, the smell of whisky evokes a sense of luxury and refinement. The scent is rich and complex with notes of hay, liquor, and celery. It's a warm, woody and smoky accord, often reconstituted from special lactones that give it distinct liquorous nuances. To recreate this essence, I drew upon my palette of raw materials creating a deep fragrance.
What was the most interesting ingredient to work with when creating The Dandy, and why?
Oak was the most interesting. I was fascinated by the richness and complexity of this element. SFE-grade oak chips, obtained by CO2 extraction, brought a woody, dry and smoky dimension to the fragrance. The oak note added depth and texture to the fragrance, evoking a timeless elegance associated with dandyism. By working with this ingredient, I was able to capture the sophisticated, daring spirit of The Dandy, creating a fragrance that seduces with its subtlety and complexity.
If you could capture one smell in a bottle, what would it be?
That's a tough question! But if I had to choose one, it would be the scent of dawn in Grasse. Picture it: the first light of day breaking over the horizon, the coolness of the morning air, and the earth waking on a new day. There's a freshness in the air, a delicate blend of dewy grass, blooming flowers, and a hint of citrus carried on a gentle breeze.
What has been your proudest moment as a perfumer?
I feel rather proud when I encounter someone on the street wearing my fragrance. It's proof that I've succeeded in bringing pleasure to someone. Beyond that, working with the people who grow natural ingredients and having the chance to use these in my beautiful creations is one of my greatest achievements as a perfumer.
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