THE BAKER'S DOZEN - INTERVIEW WITH BREAD BY BIKE
Penhaligon's sits down with Bread by Bike's head baker, Hazel Robinson, who created a trio of festive Penhaligon's-inspired recipes for The Baker's Dozen series.
With the opening of Penhaligon's Bakery (that's the festive gift shop, don't you know), we've turned our noses and stomachs towards London's impressive pool of baking talent to create recipes inspired by our very own scents. We asked Bread by Bike, an award-winning bakery in North London, to create three recipes inspired by some of our favourite fragrances. Dale Strickland, head baker, sat down with us to discuss all things baking.
Tell us a little bit about yourself and Bread by Bike
Bread By Bike began modestly in 2015 from a home kitchen and a trusty delivery bike. Since then, it's blossomed into a local favourite in the Kentish Town/Islington area while also delivering fresh bread daily to wholesale customers throughout North London.
My own baking journey began at 16, followed by formal training in bakery manufacturing and cake decoration. I then honed my skills in a supermarket bakery, rising through the ranks to bakery manager over a decade. Seeking new challenges, I joined a small independent bakery as head of bread before finding my home at Bread By Bike as head baker.
What inspired you to become a baker?
I’ve always loved baking since I was a kid helping my mum, sitting in the kitchen eating cake batter. I love the idea you can take something as simple as flour and water and make something amazing with it.
Talk us through an average day at the bakery.
The first baker is in at 02:45, and the coffee machine is the first piece of equipment to get turned on! Getting the doughs mixing for our baguettes and classic sourdough is the first job while the ovens are warming up. Baguettes bake first, and soon the smell that everyone loves starts to fill the bakery. Loaves and viennoiserie follow, and by now the bakery is lovely and warm.
By 06:00, the bakery is full of bakers bustling to get ready for opening time of 08:00. Customers flood in and we see the rewards of our hard work in the joy of their faces. During the rest of the shift, we work together to shape the doughs for the next day's bake, a process that takes a few hours. After this flurry of activity, it's time for a well-deserved lunch break. The day wraps up quickly afterwards, and depending on your start time the next day, an early night is in order.
You've won awards for your sourdough (congratulations). What's the secret to a perfect loaf?
Sourdough is more than just bread; it's a testament to time, patience, and the magic of wild yeast. It's the dedication to detail at every stage. From the gentle folds during bulk fermentation to the careful control of temperature and the final shaping, each step requires precision.
A willingness to take risks also contributes greatly to a truly special sourdough. Pushing the final proof to the brink, teetering on the edge of over-proofing, allows for an open crumb and a voluminous oven spring. This requires close attention, an almost obsessive vigilance, as you have to monitor the dough's every subtle change. It's a collaboration between baker and nature. Ultimately, there’s far more to sourdough than just its simple ingredients: flour, water, levain, and salt. It's a journey of nurturing and observation, a testament to the baker's skill and the living organism within the dough.
Which pastry would you recommend for someone's first time at Bread by Bike?
That depends! If you have a sweet tooth, definitely try our seasonal sweet Danish. If you prefer something savoury, then you really can’t beat our topped focaccia.
What's your favourite smell in a bakery?
When you start at 06:00, you can smell the cinnamon buns as you approach the bakery. On a cold and rainy morning that smell certainly welcomes you!
When it comes to Christmas, what is your go-to treat?
Well, you can’t beat the classic mince pie, however my personal favourite is choux. It's a simple dessert that’s easy to make that can look impressive and taste indulgent.
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